Notes from Paris: Watching the Democratic Nat’l Convention

With everything else happening this week, moving apartments, selling my home in Oakland, gobs and gobs of paperwork, I found myself glued to YouTube, the streaming channel that made it possible for me to watch entire evenings of the Convention or just the speeches I wanted to hear. 

Each evening, TV coverage started at 7pm ET which is 1am in Paris. So I elected to get a good night’s sleep and watched everything the following day. As with almost everybody else I’ve heard talk about the Convention, I was immediately struck by the joy, the happiness, and, dare I say it, the hope that oozed off the delegates and electrified each evening. I’m not sure how it happened and would love to hear from my readers, but from the moment President Biden threw his support behind his Vice President, Kamala Harris, the people who were so blue and feeling hopeless suddenly perked up, like watering a drooping plant that had days to go before it died and now suddenly was alive and vibrant. Watching Joe speak that first evening, I was very happy to admit that I was wrong and all the rest of you were right: He needed to step down and let someone younger run for his job. He didn’t look his age, eighty-one, but his entire body screamed that he was old. I felt so sad. What a thing to have to do. After most of his political lifetime, yearning to be President of the US, he got the golden ring but wasn’t able to finish what he started. He was asked to step down for the good of the country. Joe Biden will have a special place in history when Presidents are evaluated. I hope I’m alive to see him earn his well-deserved place. 

I have spent the last 50+ years in California. Hearing the storied journey of Kamala Harris through the halls of California courts and administration was a revelation to me. And her smile!! On TV news channels, during her time in California, we were always treated to photos of her tough side, prosecuting criminals. Her smile is beatific!!! I did wonder over the last four years why people seemed to dislike her. I wondered what she had done. Or was it just that she is a strong, tough highly educated woman, a black woman, who pulls no punches and is not intimidated by bullies. Is that what she was guilty of? 

Now, with the eyes of the world watching America, she is our darling. I was worried that the media would have a field day dredging up rumours and gossip about the Democratic hopeful. But she and husband, Doug Emhoff, seem to think ahead, to look at all those slippery slopes that most politicians, most people actually, don’t want to admit are there and do what is right. When she won the vice-presidency, Emhoff, an attorney whose cases had nothing to do with politics, quit his job in case there was any question about his connection to a possible case being litigated in the law firm of which he was a partner. In other words, he loved his wife more than his ambitions. 

We heard that a lot over the four days of the convention. Biden: “I love my job but I love my country more.” Stephanie Grisham who worked for Trump: “I love my country more than I love my party.” and many other republicans who had voted for Trump said something similar. 

The Love— Coach Walz telling his family how much he loved them. His son, in tears, saying “that’s my dad!” Emhoff declaring his love for Kamala. One of his sons telling us in photos how much fun it was watching his dad and “Momala” falling in love “just like teenagers!” The love, real love between people and families, was palpable even on YouTube watching from 7000 miles away.

It was pretty clear from the second hour of the first night that the DNC was going to take the high road. They grabbed themes that the republicans thought were theirs only and made them Democratic themes: patriotism, freedom, the American flag, families, USA chanted over and over. The words ‘facism’ and ‘neo-nazis’ were rarely mentioned. the words ‘dictator’ and ‘autocrat’ were mentioned as part of Trump’s psychology of “me, me, me,” all about Trump. Project 2025 was a book that several speakers referred to in the plans that Trump has for the US if he were to win. No one went into a lengthy explanation of who actually wrote the book, how long it has been in the making, and that these writers were not going to make the same mistake that was made in 2016 when they were unprepared to use the power that Trump made available to them. If you really want to indulge in a horror show, listen to the two seasons of Rachel Maddow’s Podcast: Ultra.(Click to start). It will make your toes curl, your stomach want to vomit, and wonder why you have never heard all this information so clearly before.

August in Paris is a time when the streets are empty, fifty percent of stores are closed, and most people are taking much needed vacations before La Rentrée, the return to school and the return to work, begins. The few people that are here have the Paralympics on their mind after having just witnessed the glorious Parisian party that was the 2024 Paris Olympics. I would watch my daily dose of the Convention and then wonder who can I talk to? Who can I trade observations with? Very few people were here. I got a few e-mails from Democrats Abroad that were joyful and urging us to get to work and that was about it. I suspect that there were others who had a different experience. Mine was lonely. It’s one of the first times of being an exPat that I longed to be somewhere else and bask in the hope and joy of my community.

In the words of the excellent Heather Cox Richardson: the Harris-Walz team is “reclaiming the idea of Community with its understanding that everyone matters and the government must serve everyone.”—HCR, Substack, August 24, 2024

And now, we who have moaned and groaned, have to “Stop complaining and get to work!” (Michelle Obama). I am volunteering with Democrats Abroad and doing whatever they ask me to do. 

What are you doing?

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A bientôt,

Sara

Even Tom Cruise: Who would have thought! Notes from the Closing of Paris 2024 regular Olympics

The regular Olympics are over. Sigh! My friends and I gathered in the Marais Sunday evening to watch the Closing Ceremony, held in the Stade de France, north of Paris in Saint Denis. The evening before I watched one of the most exiting basketball games I’ve ever seen: Team USA vs Team France, a rematch from the Tokyo Olympics that the Americans won, a fourth Olympic win for Team USA. This year’s team was made up of Steph Curry, Lebron James, Kevin Durant, a handful of others, and coached by the Warrior’s Coach, Steve Kerr. Team France was captained by Wemby, short for Victor Wembanyama, who was a rookie in the NBA this year for the San Antonio Spurs. I didn’t recognise other French names although there were two other NBA players. Team France was rabid to beat USA and it showed. At times, they were like gladiators circling each other, poking at each other, butting up, not “quite on purpose,” against each other. There were many fouls and many free throws. The score stayed close until the last quarter when Curry shifted up a gear and started throwing three-pointers. The US went ahead and France couldn’t catch up.

I was waving a French flag. I really wanted to be for my adopted country. But I knew all the American’s names and caught myself cheering with each basket before I could pull the words back. By half-time, I couldn’t keep up the pretence and cheered the US on. By the end of the game, with each three-pointer Curry shot, I was out of my seat screaming “unbelievable.” Each shot followed by his trademark sign, putting both hands up to one check implying ‘night, night’. The final score was 98-87. Team France looked devastated. Wemby was distraught. One of the American players came up and hugged him then whispered in his ear for 90 seconds. Wemby sat down on the bench and cried. Only in France.

I didn’t see either team at the Closing Ceremony.

Earlier that day, six of us had “billets libres” to Concorde where all the “Street” events were taking place: BMX, Skateboarding, Breaking (still known in the US as Breakdancing). Our tickets didn’t allow us seats at any of the competitions but we were free to wander the entire space, attend all demonstrations, and be seated in front of DiamondVision when the competitions were taking place. We mostly focused on Breaking. It is a sport no matter who says differently. A breathtaking, energetic, athletic sport that seemed to me to be as skilful as the artistic gymnastics. This was the first time it was in the Olympics and, unfortunately, the last time. It will not be present at LA28. 

My friends and I lost each other in the undulating crowds. I stayed with Cherilyn. We found a curb in the shade (it was close to 90o) that looked up at the DiamondVison in the competition area. Our responses to each contestant were emotional. Scores went up on the board but we couldn’t read what was scored or how it was scored. What we did know is that two Breakers at a time entered the platform and lent energy to each other while also competing against that person. There were two DJs who picked the sound (not known to the contestant in advance) that each contestant moved to. Each man then improvised. The strength in the arms, their fingers, the way they landed flips on their backs, or their knees, or on toes ready to jump into another flip was stunning. They never stopped moving, flipping, swirling, back and forth swinging their legs from side to side while changing arms, and that arm was all that was connected to the ground. I’m no good at describing this exhilarating sport. I hope the Olympic Committee reconsiders its removal at the next Olympics. Here in Paris, it was one of the more popular sports.

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Then it was Sunday night. I was tired. But I wasn’t going to miss the Closing Ceremony. It was supposed to be two hours and fifteen minutes but we learned at the Opening Ceremony, that France doesn’t run by the clock. The evening began with the flag bearers then the teams all pouring into the Stade de France, all happy and letting out alot of adrenaline. We got to see the champions act like children as they waved their medals at the camera. They were having fun and we loved it.

The women’s marathon had ended just before the ceremony so we were treated to a medal ceremony with the Dutch woman taking Gold, Ethiopia taking silver and Kenya taking bronze. Then everything went dark. The people who had tickets were given wrist bands when they entered and, as the lights went down, the wrist bands lit up. I turned to a friend and said “once upon a time, we just flicked on our cigarette lighters. Now it’s phones and, this time, we have techno wrist bands connected to some mother load somewhere.” Those my age nodded remembering.

There was a narration that was barely audible on the TV. I made out that we were starting in Greece at the first Olympics and then thirty or forty mummies emerged doing spectacular feats of bending, jumping, flipping all extolling the possibilities of the human body. Slowly huge circles appeared until there were finally five of them. The mummies climbed on them, did handstands, leaned out like we’d seen at Notre Dame at the Opening Ceremony. A red piano hanging in the air appeared with the pianist also hanging and, don’t ask me how, playing. I’m told that all who were present at the Closing Ceremony, were handed a program of explanation and a menu of what was happening and what it meant. We didn’t have that luxury and could only guess at the metaphorical imagery if that was what it was. The dance lasted twenty-two minutes, ending with the mummies pushing the circles in the air till they hung like the Olympic Circles. The mummies made a hill of people, that people climbed on until there was just one person, the Golden Voyager. It was a remarkable accomplishment of modern dance, hydraulics, and lights.

After two lengthy speeches by the President of the Olympic Committee, Tony Estanguet,and Thomas Back, President of IOC Refugee Olympic Team, people like me who, for no reason at all except to have an opinion, kept repeating: “please, no Tom Cruise.” Then Tom Cruise appeared at the top of the stadium, the very top, on what little roof there is. At 62 years of age, he still does many of his own stunts and today was no exception. He is one of the most well know faces of Hollywood here in France and the Top Guns and Mission Impossibles are the movies. He jumped from the top, repelled his way down into the crowd of athletes who grabbed their phones to take selfies. The Mayor of LA and Simone Biles handed him the Olympic flag and off he went. He jumped onto a motorcycle and cycled out into the streets of Paris. The rest had been video’d in advance. He cycled down the Quais along the Seine and into the back of a waiting plane. Two minutes later, he jumped out above Hollywood, took off his jumpsuit, parachute, and got his bearings. Then he began wacking away at a metal project. Soon an athlete came upon him and he handed her the Olympic flag. As she pulled away from him, we saw that he had added three more circles to the two in WOOD so the sign revealed the Olympic circles on the precious, never to be touched, Hollywood sign.

Ok, I had to admit, that was fun. The best of Tom Cruise: The Mission Impossible Handover!

What followed only underscored the difference between Paris and LA. We were taken to a beach shack on a beach that we weren’t sure really existed. The Red Hot Chilli Peppers sang and looked so American, Snoop and Dr. Dré, Billy Eilish all standing next to or on little stands and huts next to a huge ocean with fake palm trees. I didn’t say anything at the time but I’d bet 95% of us watching in Paris were glad we’d been to the Paris Olympics and had no excitement for the LA Olympics if that was a prevue.

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A Bientôt,

Sara

PS:

Another report from the Paris Olympics

Your email box is full of more opinions and descriptions of the first week and a half of the 2024 Paris Olympics than you thought possible. The Games are known over here as the Jeux Olympics 2024. It seems a bit redundant to give my perspective. But I’m going to anyway! As well as give you links to some of the more interesting posts I’ve read.

This from a woman who has been excited and looking forward to the games from the beginning: hannahmeltzer.substack.com/an-impossibly-ambitious-opening

I wrote about the lead up to the Olympics a while ago then decided to stay away from writing more as I was feeling negative and inconvenienced. It’s safe to say that most of the inhabitants of Paris felt as I did. Then came the last ten days before the Opening Ceremony. a third of the metro stops in inner Paris were shut down. Detours were set up for cars, taxis, and buses. Police, Gendarmes, and police from other countries stood on every corner. There were designated zones: red zone-very close to the event, grey zone- further away but still close, and the rest of Paris. As it turned out, my doctor’s office is in a grey zone. I had an appointment on July 18-nine days before the Opening Ceremony. I usually walk as it’s only a 25 minutes walk. As I got close to Trocadero, I was stopped by five gendarmes. FIVE! Just for me? Well, no, but for anyone walking towards Trocadero. One woman was practically in tears. She also had some kind of appointment but I couldn’t tell what without getting in her face. I explained to one of the men that I had a doctor’s appointment. I showed him the address on my phone and the confirmation of the appointment. He explained it was in a forbidden zone and I had to back-up and walk around the zone and come up from another direction. I said “But my appointment’s in 5 minutes.” Not quite true but I would never have made it if I’d done the detour. He looked at my phone again and said “OK, but you have to go around from now on.” 

At that point, I thought these precautions were for the entire Olympics and possibly the ParaOlympics. I wasn’t going to be in my apartment for the three weeks of the regular Olympics but apartment sitting for a friend up in Montmartre. I was pretty sure these regulations wouldn’t affect me up there. But still,…it was all part of the communal negative complaint of the Parisian trying to live a life.

I had tickets for a Rugby Sevens qualification event on Thursday, July 26, the day before the Opening Ceremony. This would be my first taste of how well the organization of the Olympics was going to be. I walked to Gare du Nord and took the RER D to the Stade de France. I met my friend, Fatiha, on the platform. The very informative Olympic website had advised NOT taking the RER B (which stops there but goes on to Charles de Gaulle) or the metro 13. These would be too busy and crowded. The D took 10 minutes and the cars had plenty of seats. As we left the RER station, there were volunteers to show us the way. There were plenty of signs. And there were footprints on the ground guiding us to the Stade de France. As we got close to the entrance, security checked our packs. All very orderly. Then we were inside. Still no back-ups or blockages. We looked for our gate and were inside quickly. I was amazed. It was streamlined. 

Rugby Sevens, for those who don’t know, is a different game than regular Rugby. It is 14 minutes long with a two minute break. It is fast, intense, and fun. The stadium was full. We saw four games with the US winning one and France wining one. The crowd, probably half French people, were into it and screaming their approval. That kind of excitement is contageous. That evening, France won again and the US lost. France won the gold. The US didn’t place. I had so much fun I actually said to a friend “I could see Rugby replacing baseball as my sport.” But, of course, they aren’t even in the same ballpark. Baseball is history, a culture, has more cliché sayings that any other sport as proved by my last sentence.

That trip was the beginning of my rethinking the 2024 Olympics. Friday night, I was invited to a friend’s apartment to watch the Opening Ceremony. And it started to rain. We had so much fun watching everything, oooing and ahhing. But mostly just glad we were inside with a roof over our heads. Here is another take on that night: 

courtneymaum.substack.com/what-the-Paris-Olympics-opening-can-teach-us-about-first-drafts. 

Scroll down past the interview to her take on the Ceremony.

About fifteen minutes after the incredible ending of listening to Celine Dion make her huge comeback since becoming very ill four years ago, I left to walk to the metro. The rain had stopped. Not a drop. The TV later said it was the worst July downpour in Paris history (it rarely rains in July). I’ve chatted with several people who were there and no one minded the rain. They knew that history was being made. And they were having fun. The whole thing was smiling, laughing, high-fiving fun. 

I had a moment when the camera scanned buildings in the third arrondissement, behind the many spectators. I caught my breath. The beauty of Paris never ceases to bring the true meaning of wonder to my heart.  I live here, I thought to myself.  This is my home, this gorgeous city. After more than eleven years, I feel the miracle that is Sara living in Paris.

The next day, most of the metro stations opened. A few roads were still diverted but that is because the city has built stadiums at Trocoadero, at Concorde, and on the Champs de Mars. It was easy to get around again. In fact, it seemed to me that there were very few people around. Normally in August, most Parisians leave the city for a vacation. Half of the stores will shut down. This year, many Parisians left because of the Olympics. They were feeling the same dread I was feeling. It was eery how few people were in the streets. It’s possible that because the events are spread all across the city, and many events are in Lyon and Marseilles, that there truly aren’t that many people here when events are going on.

I started feeling sad that I hadn’t tried harder to get tickets. I was catching the Olympic fever. One friend called to ask if I’d like a ticket on August 10 to the street events at Concorde. BMX, skateboarding. I didn’t have to think about it. Yes! so I get to go to a few more events on the same day. I found the resale page and tried for tennis tickets and those little guys move faster than any of the Olympic runners. Yesterday, Barbara and I went to one of the Fan Zones. The city has set up a Fan Zone in every arrondissement with huge screens, picnic tables, the selling of drinks, and things for children to do. I had passed one in the 19th where I saw children playing on swings, running around having a wonderful time while their parents watched the events. We went to the 9th yesterday. For the second day in a row, I got caught in a bicycle race. Streets closed off. How to get to the other side? Take the metro!

Today, a friend called and said she was trying to buy more tickets. Was I interested? Yes, I said. We set a number for ‘don’t go over this, it’s too expensive.” We are going to men’s water polo on Friday. And then Sunday it will all be over. At least for a couple of weeks. On August 28, the ParaOlympics will begin.

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A bientôt,

Sara