Today is Thanksgiving in the US but not in France.

The big news today in Paris is that the dates for the reoopening of Cathedrale de Notre Dame (which many of you will remember burned in a horrendous fire in 2019) have been set.

Notre-Dame de Paris Cathedral opens its doors on December 7-8, 2024 almost five years after a devastating fire. © Nancy Ing Duclos for INSPIRELLE

The magazine Inspirelle, https://inspirelle.com/notre-dame-reopening-how-to-celebrate-its-rise-from-the-ashes/ wrote today about Notre Dame and the day that we have all been waiting for. The re-Opening. The following are quotes taken from the article. I’ve put the address above if you would like to read the entire article.

Christians and non-Christians around the world watched in horror almost five years ago when flames engulfed the rooftop of the beloved 800-year-old Cathedral of Notre-Dame de Paris. When the spire toppled over in the early evening of April 15, 2019, crashing through the roof’s nave and sending billowing, ominous smoke into the Parisian skies, we all wondered if the cathedral would survive. Yet, here we are five years later, waiting with bated breath for Notre-Dame’s grand reopening and comeback. Rebuilt and restored. And word has it, the cathedral is more beautiful and transcendent than ever.”

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“Our first look inside the restored Notre-Dame will be on November 29, 2024 when President Macron makes his seventh and last visit to the worksite inside the cathedral before it is officially handed back to the Paris Diocese in early December. The state was responsible for the full restoration of Notre-Dame after the fire, which it entrusted to the Notre-Dame Restoration Committee. Remember, the French President expressed his determination that the landmark would reopen its doors five years after it suffered serious damage to its structure.”

“December 7, 2024..(is the day). The President of the French Republic returns to Notre-Dame in the evening for the official reopening. On the square in the forefront, he will deliver a short, emotional speech before declaring the handover of the cathedral to the Archbishop of Paris. Monseigneur Laurent Ulrich will knock on the medieval doors of the cathedral three times with a crozier, his special staff. The cathedral, which had been silent, then “answers” ​​him by singing Psalm 121 three times – resounding again with the song of praise. On the third time, the doors open. The eight bells of Notre-Dame will also ring again, beckoning everyone to come in.

On this occasion, 100 world leaders, dignitaries, religious leaders and the faithful have been invited to the official ceremony that will be broadcast live by France Television and shared with international media. Inside, vestiges and prayers will be delivered.”

“The following day on December 8, Msgr Ulrich will oversee the inaugural mass at 10:30 a.m. Paris time. The rector, Msgr Olivier Ribadeau-Dumas, will be by his side. The religious procession will be filled with color and emotion. The liturgical vestments worn by the clergy have been designed by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, a fixture on the French fashion scene. The capes recall medieval chivalric style with golden crosses surrounded by bursts of shards in primary colors, reflecting nobility and simplicity, modernity and joyful outreach. The President is expected to attend mass with over 1,200 guests representing various religious and charitable associations, workers, and donors who contributed to Notre-Dame’s restoration.

A second public mass is scheduled for the evening at 6 p.m. local time. France Television will cover the two masses live, and international media will be able to broadcast their images as well.”

The beloved Mother and Child survived the rooftop collapse and was placed back in the sanctuary Nov. 15, 2024 Photo: Nancy Ing Duclos

“Check the Notre-Dame website for the registration link to reserve free seats for masses and private prayers as well as visits in the first week of the reopening (reservations should open around December 1, 2024). Or, look out for the new Notre-Dame mobile application to reserve dates and learn more. Five newly organized tours are available for visitors to fully appreciate and experience the full breadth of Notre Dame’s history, architecture, spirituality and restoration.”

“The Crown of Thorns will return to the cathedral’s treasury on December 13 in a grand ceremony. This religious relic, believed to be the woven crown worn by Christ on his way to crucifixion, was saved the night of the fire by those who risked their lives to enter the burning church.

On December 16, the cathedral returns to a normal schedule offering daily mass three times a day to the public.

Musical concerts with international artists are planned for the cathedral every Tuesday night for the following new year. Click here for the program and to reserve seats.”

So today, we in France give thanks that our beloved Cathedrale has survived and we will all get to visit the new and we are told even more beautiful inside in the near future.

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A bientôt,

Sara

Sylvie Kauffmann, a former correspondent in Moscow and Washington and a member of Le Monde’s editorial board, answers questions about Trump’s second term as US President

Donald Trump’s election for a second term will have consequences beyond the United States and in Europe in particular. The Republican has repeatedly tested the United States’ relationship with its historical allies and he notoriously promised to settle the war in Ukraine in “24 hours”.

But that doesn’t say what Trump will actually do once in office. What do the president-elect’s first declarations and appointments suggest? And will he deal with a united or divided Europe?”—Le Monde

This Q & A was held virtually. To read as the questions were addressed, start at the bottom of this Substack.

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This is the end of our Q&A. Thank you very much for your great questions, looking forward to discussing Trump again with you on Le Monde in English!

Sylvie Kauffmann (Columnist)

4:47 PM (Paris)

Many Ukrainians I know seem happy about his reelection, hoping for change. Given he often oscilates between extremes, could we actually expect a positive change when it comes to US support for Ukraine?

Haris

Hi Haris,

This is a very good observation. Many Ukrainians, including in the leadership, have been frustrated over the past several months by the Biden administration’s hesitations, particularly by its refusal to grant permission to carry deep strikes within Russian territory using Western long-range missiles. I have even heard the nickname “Snake Sullivan” for Jake Sullivan, Biden’s National Security Advisor. They pointed out that Trump, during his first term, provided them with the first lethal equipment, the Javelin anti-tank missiles, that Obama had denied them. So those who were most critical of Biden hoped for a positive change if Trump was elected. Whether this positive change will actually happen is anybody’s guess. I think it will very much depend on President Putin’s attitude and also in part on China’s position, since it supports Russia in this war.

Sylvie Kauffmann (Columnist)

4:39 PM (Paris)

What will be the consequences of the political crisis in Germany for the union of Europe?

Clem

Hi Clem,

The first consequence of the political crisis in Germany is that it is missing in action at this crucial moment when Europeans should be getting together and showing a united front to the future Trump administration. The general election has been set for February 23, which means that Chancellor Scholz and his team will be busy campaigning when Trump is inaugurated and possibly when negotiations start over Ukraine. And it will probably take at least another month or two, or more, to build a governing coalition after the election.

This is the odd and unfortunate situation in Europe at the moment: its two biggest countries, Germany and France, which are supposed to provide the European “engine,” are weakened by domestic political and economic problems. This gives more space to a new player, Poland, to be more active: this is exactly what the Polish prime minister, Donald Tusk, has been doing since Trump’s victory, trying to coordinate a European common position to strengthen Ukraine in the event of a negotiation.

Poland calls for Europe to wake up after Trump’s victory

Published on November 7, 2024, at 4:06 pm (Paris) 2 min read

Sylvie Kauffmann (Columnist)

4:27 PM (Paris)

Does Trump care about Macron, one of the first leaders to have congratulated him on November 5?

Erika

Hi Erika,

You are right: Macron was actually the third European leader to congratulate Trump on November 6. The first one of course was Viktor Orban, who celebrated on X “the biggest comeback in American political history,” the second was the Austrian chancellor. Macron certainly hopes to resume the friendly relationship he had with Trump during their first term (Macron was elected president for the first time in 2017), even though he failed to convince him not to withdraw from the JCPOA (the Iranian nuclear deal) and from the Paris climate agreement. But they managed to have a working relationship, one that would be very helpful to have this time too.

But things are different today. The world is much more dangerous and unstable, a war is raging in the heart of Europe and the 47th president of the United States will most likely be more radical than the 45th. Also, Macron is weaker than during his own first term because of the political crisis at home and the fact that he no longer has a majority. So it remains to be seen who, with Trump, will speak for Europe. Orban will certainly have a close relationship with him but he can’t claim to speak for Europe.

Sylvie Kauffmann (Columnist)

4:10 PM (Paris)

Can Biden grant Ukraine membership to NATO invitation before the end of his term?

Ali

Hi Ali

Yes, theoretically, President Biden can state that he is in favor of extending an invitation to Ukraine to join NATO − something he has consistently been opposed to so far. This was part of the “victory plan” President Volodymyr Zelensky presented both to Biden and Trump in September. But this is not the most likely scenario.

Read more

‘Zelensky hopes to get an invitation for Ukraine to join NATO out of Biden before he leaves the White House’

Published on September 18, 2024, at 10:23 am (Paris) 4 min read

Sylvie Kauffmann (Columnist)

4:01 PM (Paris)

Are the Europeans hoping to obtain anything from the Biden administration in the next two months? Something that couldn’t be undone immediately by Trump

Liam

Hi Liam,

Yes indeed. This was the subject of the talks held yesterday in Brussels between Secretary of State Antony Blinken and NATO leaders and officials. The idea is to strengthen Ukraine’s armed forces and possibly provide them with more equipment in the short term so that Ukrainian leaders are in a stronger position when a negotiation with Russia eventually starts. But the Biden administration and Europeans must act very quickly, as the situation on the frontline is deteriorating.

Read more

Ukraine’s dashed hopes after three months of an incursion in Russia that was supposed to change the course of the war

Published on November 9, 2024, at 4:00 pm (Paris) 13 min read

Sylvie Kauffmann (Columnist)

3:58 PM (Paris) Further reading

The Republican president-elect has stepped up his threats to withdraw the US from NATO, to which it is the main contributor. Allies anticipate a symbolic withdrawal from the coordination of military aid to Ukraine.

NATO, better prepared for Trump than in 2016, is still leaping into the unknown

Published on November 9, 2024, at 11:45 am (Paris) 6 min read

3:53 PM (Paris)

Are the Europeans involved in negotiations now with Russia to end the war or do they just want to continue to send aid to Ukraine hoping that the Russians capitulate? Trump says he is going to appoint a special negotiator.

Thomas Winterbottom

Hello Thomas,

Very good question! As far as we know, there are no negotiations going on at the moment. Most chances are that in Trump’s mind, any negotiation to end the war in Ukraine will be held between Russia and the United States – hopefully also with Ukraine involved. But he has never mentioned the possibility of inviting Europeans to sit at the table. This is a huge issue for them, particularly for France, because what is at stake in a possible settlement of the war in Ukraine is not only the future of Ukraine but also the whole security environment of Europe. President Emmanuel Macron said on Tuesday: “Let me be clear: nothing must be decided on Ukraine without the Ukrainians, nor on Europe without the Europeans”.

Sylvie Kauffmann (Columnist)

3:44 PM (Paris)

Do you foresee Trump following through with his threats of tariffs?

Ricardo Bruinton

Hi Ricardo,

Yes! I think this is one of the few things we can safely predict, unfortunately. The EU is better prepared this time, but it remains to be seen whether Europeans have really learnt “the art of the deal”.

Sylvie Kauffmann (Columnist)

3:44 PM (Paris)

How will Trump deal with NATO and America’s défense within Europe ?

Nigel

Hello Nigel,

We don’t yet know exactly how Trump will proceed. What we do know is how he behaved in his first term: he accused the Europeans of being free riders in NATO, of taking advantage of the United States and he demanded they spend more for their defense. The situation has improved on that issue: there are now 23 NATO members, out of 30, who have reached the minimum of 2% of their GDP in military spending. It would not be surprising that Trump now raises the threshold to 3%. Some Europeans fear that under a Trump presidency, the US might withdraw from NATO, but that seems highly unlikely, as NATO is also useful to the US. And if Europeans spend more for their defense, logically they will buy more American equipment, which is good for the American economy.

Sylvie Kauffmann (Columnist)

3:30 PM (Paris) Further reading

Hungarian Prime Minister Viktor Orban hosted a European Political Community summit in Budapest on November 7, followed by a European Council meeting.

As Trump returns, Europe’s unity is tested: ‘We’re in a boat that’s going to weather a huge storm’

Published on November 8, 2024, at 12:42 pm (Paris) 5 min read

2:50 PM (Paris) Further reading

The election of Donald Trump has plunged Ukraine into the unknown. The country is preparing for a ‘very delicate diplomacy’ when he takes office on January 20, 2025.

Read more

Ukrainian leaders fear Trump’s future appointments

Published on November 13, 2024, at 4:15 pm (Paris) 3 min read

2:45 PM (Paris) Further reading

Speaking before members of the European Parliament, the European Union’s new high representative for foreign affairs put forward a slightly different vision from the one held by her predecessor, Josep Borrell.

Kaja Kallas tells MEPs she will support EU aid to Ukraine until ‘victory’

Published yesterday at 9:16 am (Paris) 3 min read

2:40 PM (Paris) Further reading

Le Monde’s editorial

Donald Trump’s re-election to a second term on November 6, and the success of the Republican Party, of which he has taken total control, represent a major turning point for the United States.

The end of an American world

Published on November 6, 2024, at 11:15 am (Paris) 2 min read

2:32 PM (Paris) Further reading

Faced with the prospect of a settlement of the war in Ukraine from which they could be excluded, some European countries, such as Poland, are taking action, writes Sylvie Kauffmann in her latest column.

‘One week after Trump’s election, a new alignment is emerging in Europe’

Published on November 13, 2024, at 4:31 pm (Paris) 3 min read

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A bientôt,

Sar

An Ode to the Democratic Party

The wonderful mary g. writes a substack called What Now? Each week she gives a prompt with lovely thoughts, background, and explanations and those of us that care to write. Prompts are such a wonderful way to write when you don’t know what to write about or you do know what to write about but the words won’t come.

This week, since Wednesday, my mantra has been “Don’t give into despair. Refuse to be numb, refuse to be depressed.” Still the few words I’ve written have been gobbledy gook. So today, in planning for some writing with my writing group, I decided to do mary’s prompt for this past Monday. 

What is an ode, you are asking. Mary’s definition is: “a lyric poem in the form of an address to a particular subject, often elevated in style or manner and written in varied or irregular meter.”

So here is my ode, unedited, but the best thing I’ve been able to express since waking up Wednesday morning. Of course, it’s not really an Ode. Nothing is elevated.

An Ode to the Democratic Party

America has spoken. It was not even close.

The people voted, they walked to booths, and they sent in ballots. 

They said they don’t care if a president is a felon.

They said they don’t care if a president has been impeached

They said they don’t care if a president spreads hatred and violence.

They said they don’t want a woman as president

They said they’ve had it with the Democrats

They said they love the orange man

Dear Democratic Party

Don’t point fingers, don’t turn on each other looking to blame

I love you 

I love what you stand for

But clearly we are out of step.

From here in France, it was a great campaign

But you assumed the average American cares about democracy,

understands the stakes

For the average American WWII was in the Middle Ages

Fascism is just a word with no meaning.

America has voted

The people are very clear what they want

It’s not what you want

It’s not what I want

I no longer recognise the country I was born in

I don’t belong

This is not a blip, something to be corrected if you just find the right cardidate.

Open your eyes, dear Democratic Party

Unblock your ears

Don’t point fingers at each other

Take inventory. Accept that this is America

Until you accept, you won’t know what to do next

You’ll do the same old, same old.

Be patient, accept and wait

Mistakes will be made

Be patient and pull together

Wait for the cracks

Be patient but attentive

Caligula brought down a Roman era

Wishing to be a god did not make him so.

Our Caligula will fly too close to the sun

Maybe not in my lifetime

                  Maybe not in yours

Be patient but be prepared.

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A bientôt,

Sara

Finding Balance: of surgeries and Life

October 21, I had carpal tunnel surgery on my left wrist/hand. The pain attacked me out of the blue in early September right after I moved apartments. It was initially misdiagnosed as a pinched nerve located near my neck at my left shoulder blade. I would wake up at 2/3am each morning with the tingling of a limb going numb starting at my left elbow running down to my fingers. My baby finger stayed free from the pain. I wasn’t able to go back to sleep unless I got out of bed and stayed standing for at least twenty minutes. The relief would only last an hour or two. After six weeks of pain, sleep deprivation and stomach sickness due to an anti-inflammatory that was prescribed but didn’t help at all, I was sent to a hand and foot clinic where it was finally confirmed that I had carpal tunnel and needed surgery. 

The first week after the surgery passed with me mostly sleeping. Friends came over to help me shop and chop veggies. Some helped with the apartment as I was still living surrounded by too many boxes and decisions to make about where to put what. When I actually made it to my computer to write, I had that experience that I’m told many writers get of staring at a white space and unable to type a word. My brain would not work.

Monday, Oct. 28, the cast came off and tomorrow, Nov. 4, the stitches will come out and, for the first time, I will be able to stand under a shower and get my entire body wet. When I told people I was having carpal tunnel surgery, I heard consistently “easy peasy” “in and out in ten minutes”. That may be so but the recovery is not easy peasy. It is probably much shorter than other recoveries but it was a serious operation and following directions for the recovery was also serious. 1—Keep your hand up near your heart so that fluid drains away from the wound. I learned that the hard way when my wrist/hand swelled from inflammation so much, the cast felt incredibly tight. I ached from the pressure and thought I had done something wrong. A call to the clinic told me everything was fine but keep that hand up. 2—Don’t use that arm. I don’t know about others but doing nothing seemed impossible. The energy it took to pay attention to when I was using that wrist/hand and stop whatever it was that I was doing was exhausting. 

I was able to take sponge baths but couldn’t wash my hair. I broke down and made an appointment with the salon that cuts my hair and asked for a wash and dry. While there, I remembered that my mother (and probably most women of that era who could afford it) went to “have her hair done” once a week. To me it seemed such a luxury. To my mother, it was part of her weekly routine. It saved her time so that she could work. She was self-employed until the last ten years of her career when she taught at Rutgers School of Medicine. When I went last week, I was in and out in thirty minutes. It really got me to thinking about doing it more often. Just like having my apartment cleaned, perhaps having “my hair done” was something I could give myself. It’s a thought anyway.

I thought I was saving money by putting together bookcases bought at Ikea. Anyone who has shopped at Ikea for anything that needs to be assembled at home knows that the instructions, which have no words so that anyone in any country supposedly could assemble it, are impossible to follow. A friend and I got one bookcase finished but the rest raised my frustration level to a high pitch. With my poor left paw out of commission, I hired Task Rabbit to come finish what I had started. It wasn’t cheap, it wasn’t outrageously expensive. What it saved me in emotional energy was worth everything penny. Fifty years after I burned my hippie card, I still think of myself as a poor student who can’t afford to pay for help that makes life easier. Life is hard enough without voluntarily choosing to add to it.

When I asked the surgeon at the time my cast came off, what I could and couldn’t do, he responded by telling me that I had to find the balance between using and not using the left hand. It was important to use it so that it didn’t stiffen up on me. And yes, I could type at the computer. (I was learning how to dictate e-mails, texts, and some writing but I didn’t get comfortable at it). I shouldn’t use it too much as that would cause pain. It was up to me to find the balance. Isn’t that true of life in general? There are no set rules, no structure, nothing that arrives on our birthday telling us how to maintain balance as we live, as we age. We each learn by doing and by making mistakes. Something I have to remind myself of constantly. Making mistakes is good, it’s a learning tool. Just don’t make the same one over and over, that isn’t learning, that is stupidity. 

So I move into week three post surgery. I have mental energy back and I’m getting outside to walk more to get some physical energy back. The weather in Paris was awful in the summer and has stayed awful this autumn—meaning lots of rainy days and cold. Two days ago, I walked outside for forty minutes. I hadn’t brought gloves with me. My hands were frozen when I returned. It’s Nov. 3rd and winter is upon us here in Paris. In my more metaphorical moments, I think even the weather is reacting to the political climate. Nothing sunny, nothing to smile about.

Two days until the election in the US. The end of the lead-up and the beginning of what many of us suspect will be a horror show of warring sides claiming that once again the election was stolen. Elections boards refusing to confirm a winner in many states. Violence. We all pray for some sanity. But that would require that all our leaders know how to lead and that hasn’t been the case for a very long time. When I speak to friends in the US, I hear the anxiety. If I ask ‘how are you?’, the first response is usually something about election fear and fatigue. Here in France, the distance dulls the edges a bit. But we all know that this election will impact the world. France and all of Europe waits on tenterhooks to see what the American people think of democracy. Even the Serenity Prayer that suggests we accept the things we cannot change gives me no peace. So many have worked for change. Will it make a difference?

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A bientôt,

Sara