Surviving a California Firestorm

With love to everyone in Los Angeles

October 22,1991: I’m standing at the top of Swainland Road in the Oakland Hills looking down at where my home stood yesterday morning. All around me, a war zone. Everything is dead. What is left of the mostly oak trees still burns, little puffs of smoke sliding out from within the trunks. Chimneys stand like sentinels guarding nothing. Stone and brick staircases climb up to nowhere. The air is still, no birds, no animals, no sounds at all. It’s like the earth has stopped breathing. The ground is charred, black, brown, russet.

Photo taken by anonymous

Less than twenty-four hours ago, I was told to evacuate. I stare down the long winding block of Swainland Road from where I stand on Broadway Terrace 1000 yards away. I’ve been robotic doing what I was told. Packing the car, though I couldn’t think clearly what to take with me. Driving to safety along with the rest of the neighborhood; a long meandering snake that had to keep adjusting as the fire jumped from hill to roadside to median.

My home is gone. Tears fill my eyes but I don’t have time to cry. There is no one else around. I snuck behind police lines desperate to return and find my second cat, Squeak, who didn’t make it out with me. I couldn’t find him. My home, my first home that I’d bought with my own money, that I’d lovingly decorated with anything I could find that made it mine, was gone. Burned to the ground.

Photo by Anonymous

I walk down Swainland, passing one lone house that stands on the righthand side of the road. It seems in perfect condition, blue with grey trim, a child’s bicycle at the front door. Only later, do I find out that it had a new up-to-date roof, three months old. These fires jump from roof to roof. I can smell wood smoke, usually one of my favorite smells. At my property, I find my bike and an old wooden milk wagon under my large oak tree. The fire jumped over them. I walk up the sixty stairs (this is the Oakland Hills) to where my front door should have been. The railing had been wooden. Nails lie side by side on the left of the stone steps all the way to the top as if someone had arranged them in perfect symmetry. Near where my bedroom had been, tree trunks were burning. Red-orange coals are visible when I look down inside. Looking up, I can see for miles. San Francisco and the Bay to my right. Only two years earlier, the 1989 Earthquake had destroyed part of the Bay Bridge. Downtown Oakland and Lake Merritt in front of me. There is nothing to block my view.

I find the dishwasher and nudge the door open. Broken plates and some pots in good condition lie within. Ashes look like sculptures. I see a long line of books that I know were once my journals. In perfect shape except they are ash. I reach out my right index finger and lightly touch one. The whole structure collapses. Thirty years of recording my joys, my sorrows, my breakups, my love affairs. Poof. Gone like smoke and ash. Literally. Funny elongated pieces of silver show up on the ground. It takes me a few seconds to realize this is the remains of the silverware my mother had sent last month.

I walk around in ever widening circles calling Squeak’s name though I know that the likelihood of surviving the 2000 degree heat is nil. I see small blue tiles scattered all over that had been stored in the basement. I pick up distorted glass perfume bottles that look beautiful in their bizarre shapes.

I’ve had enough. I want to leave. I hear a ‘meow’. Squeak emerges from seemingly nowhere covered in the tan liquid that had been dumped out of helicopters yesterday in an attempt to slow the fire’s progress. I scoop him up and, standing atop my lonely hill, I hug him. I finally sob my heart out.

*** ***

Photo by anonymous

People always want to know about the day of the Firestorm. There is no doubt that it was dramatic, exciting in the worst sense of the word. The papers and TV were filled with Hollywood-like photos of firefighters vs nature. And losing. I filled a scrapbook with a year’s worth of news, mostly for me to remember, to slow down and integrate that this had happened to me. But the real horror didn’t begin until a few months later. In 1991, California fires of this magnitude happened every twenty years or so. Now they seem to occur every twenty minutes. Insurance companies have all but abandoned California to disasters, natural or otherwise. My fire was the beginning of their trek out of state.

I was insured by Allstate. The afternoon of October 22, I called my friendly insurance guy who made sure I got $5000 to replace clothes. I learned through the Survivor grapevine that FEMA (Federal Emergency Management Agency) was setting up posts all over Oakland. We were to show up, be interviewed and advised what to do next. In the weeks leading up to Christmas, my community of Montclair Village, was generous. People donated clothes and utensils to the Montclair Presbyterian Church. We fire survivors were invited to go “shopping”. Their largest meeting hall was filled with hundreds of racks of clothes in every size for every need. Clothes had been cleaned and were hanging beautifully as if in a store. The same church invited the entire community to celebrate Thanksgiving dinner. No one was asked if they were a believer or what faith they practiced. They loved us, cared for us as we traipsed through unknown roads trying to figure out who to call or who to write. We were held in the arms of our community.

Christmas and New Year’s came and went. 1992 began and the world moved on. They left us behind. Insurance companies were balking. Some of us were lucky enough to find rentals within the community. Many of the homeless had to move into neighboring towns or even further. We were on hold at the mercy of the insurance companies. I didn’t hear anything that resembled a resolution until the end of August 1992, ten months after the Fire.

After six months, friends remarked on the fact that my emotional state was not getting better. I was depressed, I was stuck. The husband of a friend of mine told me “You’ve been depressed long enough. It’s time for you to get over this.” What I heard was: “we are tired of feeding you meals, entertaining you. You are a freeloader”. I, like so many of the other survivors, withdrew from those people and only communicated with new friends, other Fire Survivors, who understood what we were going through. FEMA had provided for support groups, but that money ran out pretty quickly. Six of us formed a group of our own and told stories of our lives from week to week to week. We talked about the hell of having to fill out long lists of what we had lost and the approximate worth. Of waiting, always waiting, on insurance companies. The weight of making the decision to rebuild or to move and to where. We accompanied each other to endless meetings often led by the leaders in our communities who rose like cream in milk to explain to us shell-shocked Californians what to do next. We let each other know if we learned of a discount that a store or organization was offering to survivors and helped each other shop. We laughed with each other as our worlds got smaller. And we drank a lot.

The day of the Firestorm was dramatic, a day you do your best to survive, a day your emotions get tossed up in the sky like a high flying kite and you hang on for dear life. You rescue what you can then follow the long line of cars driving to safety.

But it’s the next two, three, four years that make or break you. Like with a surgery when all your helpful friends tell you about the day of the surgery and what to expect but neglect to tell you about the recovery, how hard it is, how long it takes, how you have to do exactly as instructed or it gets harder and longer. That you can’t make time move faster, that you don’t know if you’ll ever feel whole again, that decisions have to be made on a dime when often your brain feels too fatigued to even hear the options.

When I saw the fires the day they broke out in Los Angeles, my first thought was “Thank goodness I don’t live in California anymore. I don’t think I could live through that again.” Then my heart started breaking for what the next days, months, and years will be like for all those Fire Survivors.

I wish I could say to all Fire Survivors, something I learned, something that would make their recoveries easier. What I learned is that I can survive a disaster like this. I do not want to ever find out if I could do it again.

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A Bientôt,

Sara

Visiting the renovated Cathedrale de Notre Dame

Here in France, christmas cards are hardly ever sent. Starting Jan 1, les Français send New Year’s cards. The rule of thumb is that one has the entire month of January to send these cards. Which, if you think about it, makes so much sense. Christmas shopping, parties, craziness, family get togethers are in the rear view window. Only taking down the tree and putting away ornaments remain. There is more relaxed time to send a card and even a letter of yearly catch-up.

So I am not late in wishing everyone Happy New Year.  For me personally, I’m happy to say good bye to 2024. It wasn’t a bad year. In fact, if I were to write down all the successful things that I did or happened to me, it was a good year. But it was an emotional year. It was like grabbing on to the tail of a kite and hanging on for dear life during a raging storm. Among the bigger things that happened, I sold my home in Oakland, California, I had cataract surgery on both eyes, I had carpal tunnel surgery on my left wrist, the Paris Olympics came to town, and I joined a year long writing Studio making a commitment to write a first draft of a second book.

In December, I spent three weeks in very cold Ann Arbor, Michigan (where exists one of the most wonderful bookstores ever: Literati) with my sister and returned in time to celebrate New Year’s eve with friends in the Marais. For me, flying west to east produces much worse jet lag than flying the other way and it seems that I lost a number of days last week, getting my feet back on the ground.

Each day since my return, I went to the Cathedrale de Notre Dame website to get a reservation to see the renovation. It was clear that no one needed a reservation but if you didn’t want to wait in a long line in the cold, it was recommended. The site gives you three days: the day you are looking and the following two days. Even though the reservations/billets are free, every day, each day said ‘Sold Out’. Until yesterday. I was so surprised to see a possible reservation for 2pm that I thought I was seeing things. I confirmed that I wanted the ticket, printed it out, invited my friend, Cherilyn, to join me, ate some lunch, and off I went to see this miracle of rebuilding.

We have all seen photos of the new inside. Because of spot lights, it all looked so WHITE, so BRIGHT, so unNotre Dame, even though it looked spectacular. I wasn’t sure I would love it the way everyone else had. 

When I got there, there were two very long queues, blocks long. I went up to a number of people and asked in French if they were in the reservations line. Not one of them spoke French. They just looked at me vacantly. So I asked in English and managed to piss at least one person off. She kept insisting that I had to go to the end of the line. It seemed that the majority of tourists had no idea that there was the possibility of reserving a ticket and a time. I found the reservations line, ten people in it, and was inside in less than two minutes even with the TSA-like security before entering. Cherilyn met me inside.

My first impression was deep relief. It wasn’t bright white, hurting your eyes bright. The renovators had managed to give all the columns and the ceiling a tone of ‘wear’, of having been around for awhile. All the artifacts had been saved and some of those were cleaned up to a just finished white. 

All images are photos taken by me

In spite of the lengthy lines on the Parvis, inside was not packed with people. It was easy to move around with the exception of seeing the crèche that is put up each December for Christmas. There the crowds were huge and not moving. It was the only time during the 90 minutes I spent inside the cathedrale that I was annoyed and wanted to jab a few people with my elbow.

Because I love elephants, here is a small photo of the contingent from India.

To get to the crèche, you walk down the left side of the sanctuary. Passing the crèche takes you to all the chapels where one can pray to a specific Saint. Most did not have finished stain glass windows but instead a pattern that was a holding place. My understanding is that the stain-glass, the gargoyles, and the spire will all be continuing work for the next couple of years. At the back was a large chapel dedicated to the Crown of Thorns that has been in Paris since Louis IX acquired it. It was orignially housed in the Cathedrale but moved to Saint Chapelle which Louis IX built specifically to house the artifact. During the renovation, it has been on view in the Louvre.

Chapel for the Crown of Thorns.

Votive candles were everywhere for 2 euros. 

We then walked up the right side of the sanctuary stopping to sit for about 30 minutes just to let the feel of the place saturate us. President Macron is one of the most unpopular men in France at the moment but this five year project that he pulled off, the renovation of the Cathedrale, is stupendous. Once inside and looking at every detail, it is hard to imagine that it was all done in this time period. It justifiably will be the most visited tourist “attraction” in Paris this year.

Many of the windows were saved from the fire.  The BBC has a wonderful video describing the process of renovating the cathedrale. Click the link to watch it

The Rose window at the front of the cathedrale partially hidden by the magnificent organ.

Also up on the website is the calendar of musical events happening in Notre Dame for 2025. Many are already sold out but those of you living in Paris can have a look on the site. Click here.

As we made our way to the exit doors, we passed a machine of souvenirs. For three euros, I received a ‘gold’ coin that says Reouverture de la Cathedrale 8 décembre 2024.

I walked into the cold afternoon a very happy visitor to the new and restored Cathedrale de Notre Dame.

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A bientôt,

Sara

Four and a half years after the book!!

A interview/podcast with a lovely interviewer, Danielle Richardson

Danielle Richardson searched and found me and interviewed me about my food addiction, my memoir, and moving to Paris, France in my 60s.

It’s an hour long so listen to some of it or all of it.

Thank you,

A bientôt,

Thanks for reading Out My Window! Subscribe for free to receive new posts and support my work.

Sara

Today is Thanksgiving in the US but not in France.

The big news today in Paris is that the dates for the reoopening of Cathedrale de Notre Dame (which many of you will remember burned in a horrendous fire in 2019) have been set.

Notre-Dame de Paris Cathedral opens its doors on December 7-8, 2024 almost five years after a devastating fire. © Nancy Ing Duclos for INSPIRELLE

The magazine Inspirelle, https://inspirelle.com/notre-dame-reopening-how-to-celebrate-its-rise-from-the-ashes/ wrote today about Notre Dame and the day that we have all been waiting for. The re-Opening. The following are quotes taken from the article. I’ve put the address above if you would like to read the entire article.

Christians and non-Christians around the world watched in horror almost five years ago when flames engulfed the rooftop of the beloved 800-year-old Cathedral of Notre-Dame de Paris. When the spire toppled over in the early evening of April 15, 2019, crashing through the roof’s nave and sending billowing, ominous smoke into the Parisian skies, we all wondered if the cathedral would survive. Yet, here we are five years later, waiting with bated breath for Notre-Dame’s grand reopening and comeback. Rebuilt and restored. And word has it, the cathedral is more beautiful and transcendent than ever.”

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“Our first look inside the restored Notre-Dame will be on November 29, 2024 when President Macron makes his seventh and last visit to the worksite inside the cathedral before it is officially handed back to the Paris Diocese in early December. The state was responsible for the full restoration of Notre-Dame after the fire, which it entrusted to the Notre-Dame Restoration Committee. Remember, the French President expressed his determination that the landmark would reopen its doors five years after it suffered serious damage to its structure.”

“December 7, 2024..(is the day). The President of the French Republic returns to Notre-Dame in the evening for the official reopening. On the square in the forefront, he will deliver a short, emotional speech before declaring the handover of the cathedral to the Archbishop of Paris. Monseigneur Laurent Ulrich will knock on the medieval doors of the cathedral three times with a crozier, his special staff. The cathedral, which had been silent, then “answers” ​​him by singing Psalm 121 three times – resounding again with the song of praise. On the third time, the doors open. The eight bells of Notre-Dame will also ring again, beckoning everyone to come in.

On this occasion, 100 world leaders, dignitaries, religious leaders and the faithful have been invited to the official ceremony that will be broadcast live by France Television and shared with international media. Inside, vestiges and prayers will be delivered.”

“The following day on December 8, Msgr Ulrich will oversee the inaugural mass at 10:30 a.m. Paris time. The rector, Msgr Olivier Ribadeau-Dumas, will be by his side. The religious procession will be filled with color and emotion. The liturgical vestments worn by the clergy have been designed by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, a fixture on the French fashion scene. The capes recall medieval chivalric style with golden crosses surrounded by bursts of shards in primary colors, reflecting nobility and simplicity, modernity and joyful outreach. The President is expected to attend mass with over 1,200 guests representing various religious and charitable associations, workers, and donors who contributed to Notre-Dame’s restoration.

A second public mass is scheduled for the evening at 6 p.m. local time. France Television will cover the two masses live, and international media will be able to broadcast their images as well.”

The beloved Mother and Child survived the rooftop collapse and was placed back in the sanctuary Nov. 15, 2024 Photo: Nancy Ing Duclos

“Check the Notre-Dame website for the registration link to reserve free seats for masses and private prayers as well as visits in the first week of the reopening (reservations should open around December 1, 2024). Or, look out for the new Notre-Dame mobile application to reserve dates and learn more. Five newly organized tours are available for visitors to fully appreciate and experience the full breadth of Notre Dame’s history, architecture, spirituality and restoration.”

“The Crown of Thorns will return to the cathedral’s treasury on December 13 in a grand ceremony. This religious relic, believed to be the woven crown worn by Christ on his way to crucifixion, was saved the night of the fire by those who risked their lives to enter the burning church.

On December 16, the cathedral returns to a normal schedule offering daily mass three times a day to the public.

Musical concerts with international artists are planned for the cathedral every Tuesday night for the following new year. Click here for the program and to reserve seats.”

So today, we in France give thanks that our beloved Cathedrale has survived and we will all get to visit the new and we are told even more beautiful inside in the near future.

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A bientôt,

Sara

Sylvie Kauffmann, a former correspondent in Moscow and Washington and a member of Le Monde’s editorial board, answers questions about Trump’s second term as US President

Donald Trump’s election for a second term will have consequences beyond the United States and in Europe in particular. The Republican has repeatedly tested the United States’ relationship with its historical allies and he notoriously promised to settle the war in Ukraine in “24 hours”.

But that doesn’t say what Trump will actually do once in office. What do the president-elect’s first declarations and appointments suggest? And will he deal with a united or divided Europe?”—Le Monde

This Q & A was held virtually. To read as the questions were addressed, start at the bottom of this Substack.

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This is the end of our Q&A. Thank you very much for your great questions, looking forward to discussing Trump again with you on Le Monde in English!

Sylvie Kauffmann (Columnist)

4:47 PM (Paris)

Many Ukrainians I know seem happy about his reelection, hoping for change. Given he often oscilates between extremes, could we actually expect a positive change when it comes to US support for Ukraine?

Haris

Hi Haris,

This is a very good observation. Many Ukrainians, including in the leadership, have been frustrated over the past several months by the Biden administration’s hesitations, particularly by its refusal to grant permission to carry deep strikes within Russian territory using Western long-range missiles. I have even heard the nickname “Snake Sullivan” for Jake Sullivan, Biden’s National Security Advisor. They pointed out that Trump, during his first term, provided them with the first lethal equipment, the Javelin anti-tank missiles, that Obama had denied them. So those who were most critical of Biden hoped for a positive change if Trump was elected. Whether this positive change will actually happen is anybody’s guess. I think it will very much depend on President Putin’s attitude and also in part on China’s position, since it supports Russia in this war.

Sylvie Kauffmann (Columnist)

4:39 PM (Paris)

What will be the consequences of the political crisis in Germany for the union of Europe?

Clem

Hi Clem,

The first consequence of the political crisis in Germany is that it is missing in action at this crucial moment when Europeans should be getting together and showing a united front to the future Trump administration. The general election has been set for February 23, which means that Chancellor Scholz and his team will be busy campaigning when Trump is inaugurated and possibly when negotiations start over Ukraine. And it will probably take at least another month or two, or more, to build a governing coalition after the election.

This is the odd and unfortunate situation in Europe at the moment: its two biggest countries, Germany and France, which are supposed to provide the European “engine,” are weakened by domestic political and economic problems. This gives more space to a new player, Poland, to be more active: this is exactly what the Polish prime minister, Donald Tusk, has been doing since Trump’s victory, trying to coordinate a European common position to strengthen Ukraine in the event of a negotiation.

Poland calls for Europe to wake up after Trump’s victory

Published on November 7, 2024, at 4:06 pm (Paris) 2 min read

Sylvie Kauffmann (Columnist)

4:27 PM (Paris)

Does Trump care about Macron, one of the first leaders to have congratulated him on November 5?

Erika

Hi Erika,

You are right: Macron was actually the third European leader to congratulate Trump on November 6. The first one of course was Viktor Orban, who celebrated on X “the biggest comeback in American political history,” the second was the Austrian chancellor. Macron certainly hopes to resume the friendly relationship he had with Trump during their first term (Macron was elected president for the first time in 2017), even though he failed to convince him not to withdraw from the JCPOA (the Iranian nuclear deal) and from the Paris climate agreement. But they managed to have a working relationship, one that would be very helpful to have this time too.

But things are different today. The world is much more dangerous and unstable, a war is raging in the heart of Europe and the 47th president of the United States will most likely be more radical than the 45th. Also, Macron is weaker than during his own first term because of the political crisis at home and the fact that he no longer has a majority. So it remains to be seen who, with Trump, will speak for Europe. Orban will certainly have a close relationship with him but he can’t claim to speak for Europe.

Sylvie Kauffmann (Columnist)

4:10 PM (Paris)

Can Biden grant Ukraine membership to NATO invitation before the end of his term?

Ali

Hi Ali

Yes, theoretically, President Biden can state that he is in favor of extending an invitation to Ukraine to join NATO − something he has consistently been opposed to so far. This was part of the “victory plan” President Volodymyr Zelensky presented both to Biden and Trump in September. But this is not the most likely scenario.

Read more

‘Zelensky hopes to get an invitation for Ukraine to join NATO out of Biden before he leaves the White House’

Published on September 18, 2024, at 10:23 am (Paris) 4 min read

Sylvie Kauffmann (Columnist)

4:01 PM (Paris)

Are the Europeans hoping to obtain anything from the Biden administration in the next two months? Something that couldn’t be undone immediately by Trump

Liam

Hi Liam,

Yes indeed. This was the subject of the talks held yesterday in Brussels between Secretary of State Antony Blinken and NATO leaders and officials. The idea is to strengthen Ukraine’s armed forces and possibly provide them with more equipment in the short term so that Ukrainian leaders are in a stronger position when a negotiation with Russia eventually starts. But the Biden administration and Europeans must act very quickly, as the situation on the frontline is deteriorating.

Read more

Ukraine’s dashed hopes after three months of an incursion in Russia that was supposed to change the course of the war

Published on November 9, 2024, at 4:00 pm (Paris) 13 min read

Sylvie Kauffmann (Columnist)

3:58 PM (Paris) Further reading

The Republican president-elect has stepped up his threats to withdraw the US from NATO, to which it is the main contributor. Allies anticipate a symbolic withdrawal from the coordination of military aid to Ukraine.

NATO, better prepared for Trump than in 2016, is still leaping into the unknown

Published on November 9, 2024, at 11:45 am (Paris) 6 min read

3:53 PM (Paris)

Are the Europeans involved in negotiations now with Russia to end the war or do they just want to continue to send aid to Ukraine hoping that the Russians capitulate? Trump says he is going to appoint a special negotiator.

Thomas Winterbottom

Hello Thomas,

Very good question! As far as we know, there are no negotiations going on at the moment. Most chances are that in Trump’s mind, any negotiation to end the war in Ukraine will be held between Russia and the United States – hopefully also with Ukraine involved. But he has never mentioned the possibility of inviting Europeans to sit at the table. This is a huge issue for them, particularly for France, because what is at stake in a possible settlement of the war in Ukraine is not only the future of Ukraine but also the whole security environment of Europe. President Emmanuel Macron said on Tuesday: “Let me be clear: nothing must be decided on Ukraine without the Ukrainians, nor on Europe without the Europeans”.

Sylvie Kauffmann (Columnist)

3:44 PM (Paris)

Do you foresee Trump following through with his threats of tariffs?

Ricardo Bruinton

Hi Ricardo,

Yes! I think this is one of the few things we can safely predict, unfortunately. The EU is better prepared this time, but it remains to be seen whether Europeans have really learnt “the art of the deal”.

Sylvie Kauffmann (Columnist)

3:44 PM (Paris)

How will Trump deal with NATO and America’s défense within Europe ?

Nigel

Hello Nigel,

We don’t yet know exactly how Trump will proceed. What we do know is how he behaved in his first term: he accused the Europeans of being free riders in NATO, of taking advantage of the United States and he demanded they spend more for their defense. The situation has improved on that issue: there are now 23 NATO members, out of 30, who have reached the minimum of 2% of their GDP in military spending. It would not be surprising that Trump now raises the threshold to 3%. Some Europeans fear that under a Trump presidency, the US might withdraw from NATO, but that seems highly unlikely, as NATO is also useful to the US. And if Europeans spend more for their defense, logically they will buy more American equipment, which is good for the American economy.

Sylvie Kauffmann (Columnist)

3:30 PM (Paris) Further reading

Hungarian Prime Minister Viktor Orban hosted a European Political Community summit in Budapest on November 7, followed by a European Council meeting.

As Trump returns, Europe’s unity is tested: ‘We’re in a boat that’s going to weather a huge storm’

Published on November 8, 2024, at 12:42 pm (Paris) 5 min read

2:50 PM (Paris) Further reading

The election of Donald Trump has plunged Ukraine into the unknown. The country is preparing for a ‘very delicate diplomacy’ when he takes office on January 20, 2025.

Read more

Ukrainian leaders fear Trump’s future appointments

Published on November 13, 2024, at 4:15 pm (Paris) 3 min read

2:45 PM (Paris) Further reading

Speaking before members of the European Parliament, the European Union’s new high representative for foreign affairs put forward a slightly different vision from the one held by her predecessor, Josep Borrell.

Kaja Kallas tells MEPs she will support EU aid to Ukraine until ‘victory’

Published yesterday at 9:16 am (Paris) 3 min read

2:40 PM (Paris) Further reading

Le Monde’s editorial

Donald Trump’s re-election to a second term on November 6, and the success of the Republican Party, of which he has taken total control, represent a major turning point for the United States.

The end of an American world

Published on November 6, 2024, at 11:15 am (Paris) 2 min read

2:32 PM (Paris) Further reading

Faced with the prospect of a settlement of the war in Ukraine from which they could be excluded, some European countries, such as Poland, are taking action, writes Sylvie Kauffmann in her latest column.

‘One week after Trump’s election, a new alignment is emerging in Europe’

Published on November 13, 2024, at 4:31 pm (Paris) 3 min read

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A bientôt,

Sar

An Ode to the Democratic Party

The wonderful mary g. writes a substack called What Now? Each week she gives a prompt with lovely thoughts, background, and explanations and those of us that care to write. Prompts are such a wonderful way to write when you don’t know what to write about or you do know what to write about but the words won’t come.

This week, since Wednesday, my mantra has been “Don’t give into despair. Refuse to be numb, refuse to be depressed.” Still the few words I’ve written have been gobbledy gook. So today, in planning for some writing with my writing group, I decided to do mary’s prompt for this past Monday. 

What is an ode, you are asking. Mary’s definition is: “a lyric poem in the form of an address to a particular subject, often elevated in style or manner and written in varied or irregular meter.”

So here is my ode, unedited, but the best thing I’ve been able to express since waking up Wednesday morning. Of course, it’s not really an Ode. Nothing is elevated.

An Ode to the Democratic Party

America has spoken. It was not even close.

The people voted, they walked to booths, and they sent in ballots. 

They said they don’t care if a president is a felon.

They said they don’t care if a president has been impeached

They said they don’t care if a president spreads hatred and violence.

They said they don’t want a woman as president

They said they’ve had it with the Democrats

They said they love the orange man

Dear Democratic Party

Don’t point fingers, don’t turn on each other looking to blame

I love you 

I love what you stand for

But clearly we are out of step.

From here in France, it was a great campaign

But you assumed the average American cares about democracy,

understands the stakes

For the average American WWII was in the Middle Ages

Fascism is just a word with no meaning.

America has voted

The people are very clear what they want

It’s not what you want

It’s not what I want

I no longer recognise the country I was born in

I don’t belong

This is not a blip, something to be corrected if you just find the right cardidate.

Open your eyes, dear Democratic Party

Unblock your ears

Don’t point fingers at each other

Take inventory. Accept that this is America

Until you accept, you won’t know what to do next

You’ll do the same old, same old.

Be patient, accept and wait

Mistakes will be made

Be patient and pull together

Wait for the cracks

Be patient but attentive

Caligula brought down a Roman era

Wishing to be a god did not make him so.

Our Caligula will fly too close to the sun

Maybe not in my lifetime

                  Maybe not in yours

Be patient but be prepared.

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A bientôt,

Sara

Finding Balance: of surgeries and Life

October 21, I had carpal tunnel surgery on my left wrist/hand. The pain attacked me out of the blue in early September right after I moved apartments. It was initially misdiagnosed as a pinched nerve located near my neck at my left shoulder blade. I would wake up at 2/3am each morning with the tingling of a limb going numb starting at my left elbow running down to my fingers. My baby finger stayed free from the pain. I wasn’t able to go back to sleep unless I got out of bed and stayed standing for at least twenty minutes. The relief would only last an hour or two. After six weeks of pain, sleep deprivation and stomach sickness due to an anti-inflammatory that was prescribed but didn’t help at all, I was sent to a hand and foot clinic where it was finally confirmed that I had carpal tunnel and needed surgery. 

The first week after the surgery passed with me mostly sleeping. Friends came over to help me shop and chop veggies. Some helped with the apartment as I was still living surrounded by too many boxes and decisions to make about where to put what. When I actually made it to my computer to write, I had that experience that I’m told many writers get of staring at a white space and unable to type a word. My brain would not work.

Monday, Oct. 28, the cast came off and tomorrow, Nov. 4, the stitches will come out and, for the first time, I will be able to stand under a shower and get my entire body wet. When I told people I was having carpal tunnel surgery, I heard consistently “easy peasy” “in and out in ten minutes”. That may be so but the recovery is not easy peasy. It is probably much shorter than other recoveries but it was a serious operation and following directions for the recovery was also serious. 1—Keep your hand up near your heart so that fluid drains away from the wound. I learned that the hard way when my wrist/hand swelled from inflammation so much, the cast felt incredibly tight. I ached from the pressure and thought I had done something wrong. A call to the clinic told me everything was fine but keep that hand up. 2—Don’t use that arm. I don’t know about others but doing nothing seemed impossible. The energy it took to pay attention to when I was using that wrist/hand and stop whatever it was that I was doing was exhausting. 

I was able to take sponge baths but couldn’t wash my hair. I broke down and made an appointment with the salon that cuts my hair and asked for a wash and dry. While there, I remembered that my mother (and probably most women of that era who could afford it) went to “have her hair done” once a week. To me it seemed such a luxury. To my mother, it was part of her weekly routine. It saved her time so that she could work. She was self-employed until the last ten years of her career when she taught at Rutgers School of Medicine. When I went last week, I was in and out in thirty minutes. It really got me to thinking about doing it more often. Just like having my apartment cleaned, perhaps having “my hair done” was something I could give myself. It’s a thought anyway.

I thought I was saving money by putting together bookcases bought at Ikea. Anyone who has shopped at Ikea for anything that needs to be assembled at home knows that the instructions, which have no words so that anyone in any country supposedly could assemble it, are impossible to follow. A friend and I got one bookcase finished but the rest raised my frustration level to a high pitch. With my poor left paw out of commission, I hired Task Rabbit to come finish what I had started. It wasn’t cheap, it wasn’t outrageously expensive. What it saved me in emotional energy was worth everything penny. Fifty years after I burned my hippie card, I still think of myself as a poor student who can’t afford to pay for help that makes life easier. Life is hard enough without voluntarily choosing to add to it.

When I asked the surgeon at the time my cast came off, what I could and couldn’t do, he responded by telling me that I had to find the balance between using and not using the left hand. It was important to use it so that it didn’t stiffen up on me. And yes, I could type at the computer. (I was learning how to dictate e-mails, texts, and some writing but I didn’t get comfortable at it). I shouldn’t use it too much as that would cause pain. It was up to me to find the balance. Isn’t that true of life in general? There are no set rules, no structure, nothing that arrives on our birthday telling us how to maintain balance as we live, as we age. We each learn by doing and by making mistakes. Something I have to remind myself of constantly. Making mistakes is good, it’s a learning tool. Just don’t make the same one over and over, that isn’t learning, that is stupidity. 

So I move into week three post surgery. I have mental energy back and I’m getting outside to walk more to get some physical energy back. The weather in Paris was awful in the summer and has stayed awful this autumn—meaning lots of rainy days and cold. Two days ago, I walked outside for forty minutes. I hadn’t brought gloves with me. My hands were frozen when I returned. It’s Nov. 3rd and winter is upon us here in Paris. In my more metaphorical moments, I think even the weather is reacting to the political climate. Nothing sunny, nothing to smile about.

Two days until the election in the US. The end of the lead-up and the beginning of what many of us suspect will be a horror show of warring sides claiming that once again the election was stolen. Elections boards refusing to confirm a winner in many states. Violence. We all pray for some sanity. But that would require that all our leaders know how to lead and that hasn’t been the case for a very long time. When I speak to friends in the US, I hear the anxiety. If I ask ‘how are you?’, the first response is usually something about election fear and fatigue. Here in France, the distance dulls the edges a bit. But we all know that this election will impact the world. France and all of Europe waits on tenterhooks to see what the American people think of democracy. Even the Serenity Prayer that suggests we accept the things we cannot change gives me no peace. So many have worked for change. Will it make a difference?

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A bientôt,

Sara

My Good Bright Wolf

by Sarah Moss

Sarah Moss writes novels. I haven’t read any of them but have read The Immortal Life of Henrietta Lacks for which she wrote the Introduction. I don’t think that really counts. So I’m not sure why I picked up her memoir My Good Bright Wolf, which came out yesterday, knowing nothing about her. Except I loved the title. 

There are people who say there are no coincidences. Sarah Moss is anorexic. She has written a memoir that brings the illness of anorexia so intimately to the reader that I felt myself catch my breath several times. When I wrote my book Saving Sara A Memoir of Food Addiction, I wanted to do what I had never read in all the literature of eating disorders. Bring the reader into the mind, insanity, and horror of binging. Until I read My Good Bright Wolf, I never comprehended anorexia. I thought it a completely different animal than binging or bulimia. After reading this memoir, I don’t feel very different from Sarah with an ‘h’. 

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At the end of the memoir, Ms. Moss tells us how hard the book was to write, not just because it is so intimate but because she comes from a good background, had a great education, has a successful profession, and owns real estate. Which, to my mind, only confirms that eating disorders have no bias. Rich, poor, black, white, American, European, these diseases don’t discriminate.

This memoir is beautifully written, courageously written. She is able to convey the dialogue that goes on in our minds when “under the influence.” The part of her that convinces herself that she isn’t really sick, and even as she is inches away from death, she tried to convince a doctor that there are really sick people in the hospital and he should be attending to them.

She writes about the cult, the politics of being Thin. I related to everything she said: the judgments that thin people were better people. I hated my body because I was fat. She hated her body because she wasn’t thin enough. Her last chapter is entitled “My body, my home.” Just those four words gave me a severe jolt. I’ve always been looking for home. What if home is the shelter we carry with us all the time. Like a turtle, we can go to safety by pulling into our homes.

I listened to My Good Bright Wolf. It was narrated by Morven Christie. “”Morven Christie’s limpid, Scottish-inflected voice and gentle, enticing tone combine to lure listeners into Sarah Moss’s astonishing (memoir) as effectively as mermaids tempt sailors into the sea” —AudioFile on Summerwater (Earphones Award winner). Morven’s voice is strong and she enunciates with beauty. It is as if she had written the book, she knew just when to inflect, when to emphasize, when to talk to herself (as Moss) with contempt. 

There is an emerging breed of memoir writer: Sarah Moss, Maggie Smith, Leslie Jameson who write poetically, lyrically. Who bring us into their worlds in a soft rocking manner but the subject matter is so serious, the self-talk so vicious and this style makes everything much easier to bare and also to relate to.

I’m not great at book reviews. And wish I could do this memoir justice. If you are at all interested in disordered eating, at the insanity behind the disease, and how one anorexic describes it and dealt/deals with it, I urge you to read this book. 

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A bientôt,

Sara

For the love of the metro

Because of an Australian, le Bulletin 🇫🇷by Judy MacMahon, who loves all things French and writes a wonderful Substack, many of us who live and write about Paris and France have come to know and read each others’ Substacks. One of the newest writers I’ve learned about is Jenn Bragg who writes For The Love of France. Under her heading, she says “My life’s work is observing the nuances of different cultures that you may not otherwise notice. I write mostly about French culture.”

I tend to write emotionally, how what I see and do hits me where I live. Jenn does her homework. When she writes about something that has caught her interest, she researches it and the reader, me, gets a history lesson about the city I love so much. 

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We all ride the metro almost every day (unless we can walk but recently it has been raining every day so the metro is it!!!). This week, Jenn wrote about the metro line #6 – one that goes from Etoile at the Arc de Triomphe in the 16th to Nation in the east of Paris, the 12th arrondissement. I’ve never thought about it much as I haven’t had to take it very often. I asked Jenn if I could share her wonderful writing with you:

One of my favorite Paris Metro lines

Line 6 delivers people to destinations and happiness to moi

JENN BRAGG

OCT 06, 2024

the glorious above-ground metro Line 6. Source: parissecret.com

How do I love thee, Paris metro line 6? Let me count the ways.

In Paris, each metro line has its own ‘vibe’, but Line 6 is one I really appreciate. It traverses the southern side of Paris, connecting Nation in the east to the Charles de Gaulle – Etoile station in the west, shown as a green line in the image below:

My favorite stretch of Line 6 is between Corvisart and Denfert-Rochereau. Those stops mostly cover above-ground views of Boulevard Saint-Jacques which turns into Boulevard Auguste Blanqui and ends at Denfert-Rochereau, known as the stop for the Paris catacombs.

I went out on Line 6 last week and recorded this video just to give you an idea of its loveliness:

Jenn’s video wouldn’t transfer so I encourage you to go to her Substack For The Love of France and watch it.

Now let’s just do a round-up of some of the interesting things about Line 6:

Open-air stations

Much of Line 6 features above-ground stations. When the track was built, it traced along an old city wall that was demolished in 1860. By building stations above ground, it reduced the need to dig tunnels for the trains. As a result, nearly half the 28 stations along Line 6 are raised platforms and feature glass canopy ceilings.

It’s old

The first iteration of Line 6 was completed in 1900. It was one of the main ways of reaching the area around the Eiffel Tower when Paris hosted the world’s fair that year. Later, more track and stations were added to expand the line so that it became the far-reaching, city-crossing stretch we know today.

Left: construction of the metro/right: and old metro train

Interesting WW2 history

Line 6 even has an interesting connection to the Second World War: a number of station names were used as code names for prominent members of the French Resistance. These code names were designated for several agents under the military leadership of General Charles de Gaulle to help with efforts against the Nazis to retake control of France.

Here are the code names that were assigned:

  • Passy – Andre Dewavrin was known as ‘Colonel Passy’ – he had a leading role in military intelligence and helped organize the French Resistance under the stewardship of Charles de Gaulle.
  • Saint-Jacques – the man who took this code name was Maurice Duclos, who also helped found the French Resistance. He created several Paris-based intelligence networks.
  • Corvisart – Alexandre Beresnikoff was born in Russia but was given the name by de Gaulle from his base in London to help with secret missions for the French Resistance.
  • Bienvenüe – this moniker was given to Ramond Lagier, who joined de Gaulle’s secret service in 1940.

Bir Hakeim Bridge

If you are heading west on Line 6, you will ride on top the Bir Hakeim Bridge – made famous by that horrible movie, Last Tango in Paris. I went there for the first time (!!) last December and it really is a gloriously beautiful bridge, with an unparalleled view of the Eiffel Tower. The best way to access the bridge is to get off at the Passy stop.

Bir Hakeim Bridge: I told you it was pretty!

So, if you’re coming to Paris with an open agenda (the way I recommend to travel), grab line 6 and ride it through the southern side of Paris. If you go from one side to the other, you’ll see:

  • Great street art on the buildings in the eastern end of the line
  • The Eiffel Tower on the Western end of the line approaching Passy station, which is absolutely breathtaking
  • Gorgeous leafy neighborhoods between Corvisart and Denfeert-Rochereau

Yes, what I’m suggesting is that the next time you come to Paris, add ‘riding the metro’ as one of your activities. You won’t regret it!


Before I really leave you, in doing my research I stumbled on an old photo of this gorgeous Art Nouveau station at the Bastille metro stop. (Bastille is not on Line 6 but I love this pic so much, I’d be remiss not to share it.)

Beautiful, non?

Sources: Metro line 6: a line and its history | Culture (ratp.fr)

Betty Carlson: I watched the video, which I rarely do on Substack, and definitely recognized some of the buildings going by.

Something you might be interested in: when I was teaching high school French in the States, I used a book called “Le Monstre dans le Métro” for my second-year classes as a supplement to our textbook. I looked it up this evening, and it appears to have been written in 1977, which means it was quite modern when I started teaching in 1982. The action takes place on Line 6, and that is where I learned the names of many of the stations.

I later led two trips to France with students, and we rode line 6 the way you suggest, as an activity in and of itself. My students loved seeing the actual stations referred to in the book. I’m quite sure it contains a line something like “Corvisart! Glacière! Saint-Jacques! Le monstre se dirige vers la station Denfert-Rochereau!”

Lindsey Johnstone: Such a gorgeous post! I haven’t been on the 6 for years and you’ve inspired me to take it just for the ride.

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If you are interested in other Substacks about Paris and France, check out Judy’s FranceStack. She has listed each of us who wish to be included in her list of Substack’s on all the many wonderful aspects of France. “Savvy Francophiles read ‘le Bulletin’ newsletter: a luscious immersive weekend of Francophilia, including recently published articles from MyFrenchLife.org by me, Judy MacMahon, Fondatrice, MyFrenchLife™ Magazine”

A bientôt,

Sara

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Jenn BraggFor Love of France19 mins agoSara, thank you so much for your very kind review of my work. I’m honored to be able to share this platform (and a love of France) with you and Judy and all the others who write about France! 🇫🇷 LIKEREPLYSHARE

The Year of Living Dangerously

or What I did on my summer vacation.

I’m 77 years old, retired for 15 years, yet still think in terms of the Academic year.  So, I still think of summer vacation and that real vacation time is always in the summer.  Here in Paris, Parisians, (ones who can afford it), take the entire month of July off or the entire month of August.  They stay in the same place, a country house in Normandy, an apartment near the water in Brittany. I envied that and this year arranged to spend a month in my favorite town: St. Jean de Luz, ten miles north of Spain in southwest France.  I barely remember being there. 

And then there was the Olympics which I loved and someday I will look at photos and read reminiscences. The most emotional event this summer, however, was, as I was signing the papers letting go of my home in Oakland, California, I found and moved from a one bedroom apartment to a two bedroom apartment in the 16th arrondissement—the physical sign that I am taking my writing seriously and needed a room for an office.  I was tired of spreading books, my journal, and my many (some unneeded) accoutrements over my dining room table and eating meals on the couch.

When I moved to Paris in 2013, I came for one year.  The taxi dropped me off in front of 1, rue Gît le Coeur with three suitcases and a cat, Banya.  It didn’t take me long to fill up the closets and rooms with ‘stuff’.  And here I still am, in Paris, eleven years later having had one of the most turbulent years of my life. None of it produced by consuming alcohol or sugar. I sold that Oakland home by Zoom and WhatsApp thanks to a realtor with the patience of a saint. I had moved one other time but, like giving birth, I don’t remember it being especially traumatic.

I had visited five apartments before I came to see this apartment halfway through the Olympics.  I walked in and saw HOME. It is gorgeous with a living room/dining room larger than the totality of my last apartment.  It has a terrace, something Parisians would give their right arm for.  The two bedrooms are spacious and light. To top it off, there is a cave, a huge room in the basement for storing unneeded stuff.  The only thing in it when I opened the door was a wine rack six feet high.  Perfect for a recovering alcoholic.

It is expensive.  I had been telling myself the entire time that my Oakland home was getting ready to be put on the market that I could now afford a more expensive apartment.  It’s one thing to think it and know I deserve it.  It’s landing on another planet writing out a check for xxxx euros a month. 

I was excited. I planned well. I arranged for help in moving necessities so they wouldn’t get lost while my world consisted of nothing but boxes, and I hired a moving company.  I couldn’t have done anything more.  When I stood in the apartment my first night, alone with Bijou (cat #2), who has adapted beautifully I might add, my head was bobbing in a sea of boxes.  Boxes on top of boxes.  I didn’t sleep well that night.

I knew I wanted to start with the living room. I hauled the white couch that came with the apartment and weighed 10,000 pounds from the center of the room to the wall that faces the terrace and the Parisian roof tops. I put down my two Persian (are we allowed to say that?) rugs on the floor. I placed the two armchairs that just happened to accentuate the colors of the rugs facing the couch. I placed the only two table lamps I own on the seats of chairs so that they lit up the room. It was 8:30pm. I sat down on one of the armchairs and breathed it in. In its messy disorder, it was beautiful. This was my home. This was not an apartment for someone trying to make up her mind whether to stay in Paris or return to Oakland. This gorgeous,’ I can’t quite believe it’s happening to me’, apartment was mine, where I was going to live from now on.

*** ***

I’m told that moving is number #2 on the Stress List. If that’s true, I’m doing very well. But I’m actually not. One of the three days of moving, I pinched a nerve that resulted in the lower part of my left arm and entire left hand falling asleep with electric pizzassing and waking me up every morning around 3am. No matter how I tossed or turned, I couldn’t stop it. I would have to get out of bed and walk around until it stopped. It seemed only to be problematic when I was lying down. I couldn’t get an appointment with my kiné (kinestheologist) for anther five days. By the time I arrived at his office, my eyes felt that they had moved to the back of my head. I was sure I looked haunted and I was so sleep deprived that there was no doubt in my mind that should I ever be terrorised for information, I would cave on the first night. I felt some relief after that first meeting but it all returned four days later. I went back and he honestly said that probably I needed more than he could give me. A prescription for high strength anti-inflammatories, and a friend told me I had to go to her osteopath. I also was given some mild sleeping pills. It all has been working and I had such high hopes. Yesterday, I forgot to take the anti-inflammatory and, voilà, I was woken up with arm pain at 3pm. 

This is just like sciatica. And just like sciatica, it will take its own sweet time in healing. And I don’t like not being in control of things. I want to believe I can go to the doctor and he/she has the answer. I will never be a good Buddhist. The arena of “not knowing” and accepting it if it’s uncomfortable, is hell for me. Yet, what can I do? Right now, I am so grateful for my aparment, my beautiful new home: where I’m typing at my brand new IKEA desk and IKEA office chair. I live in my Living Room, the one room I have made so lovely and looks exactly like the place I always want to come home to. And I’m upright for more hours of the day than I’m lying down. So it’s true, it could be a lot worse. And one of these days, it will be a lot better.

A bientôt,

Sara